A Slice of Italy in Dunedin's St Clair

In the heart of Dunedin's St Clair, a unique cultural and culinary phenomenon is taking root. What began as a simple desire to bring authentic wood-fired pizzas to the shores of the seaside suburb has blossomed into a thriving Italian community, drawing expats, food lovers, and locals alike.

It all started over a decade ago when Katrina Toovey took over The Esplanade, a restaurant in St Clair. Her vision was to offer something special—authentic Italian cuisine, particularly wood-fired pizzas. "I thought, who better to do that than an Italian?" she said. What she didn't anticipate was the ripple effect her decision would have on the local community.

Since then, Toovey has helped bring around 40 Italians to Dunedin, many of whom came on working holiday visas or were drawn by the charm of the city and the warmth of its people. This year, she expanded her efforts with the opening of two more businesses—Piccolo Bar and Sorella Gelato—both located just a short walk from The Esplanade and St Clair beach.

"It's been a happy accident and kind of an organic growth," Toovey said. "There's a whole community of people here, including now children who've bubbled up through this business and found something they enjoy." The community has grown so much that it now includes families, with many staying for the long term.

One of the most prominent figures in this community is Luca Capece, the restaurant manager at The Esplanade. He moved to Dunedin in 2013 with his best friend, who was a pizza chef at the time. What started as an adventure turned into a life-changing experience. He met his partner there, and the two now have two children. "I feel at home here," he said. "The Kiwi community has treated us like family."

For Capece, the ability to speak Italian with other staff members and enjoy traditional dishes like polenta has been a comforting reminder of home. "When you eat polenta, it brings up all the memories from when your mum was cooking it and you were enjoying it," he said. "It's beautiful."

Vanessa Sanna, the maître d' at The Esplanade, also found a sense of belonging in Dunedin. She moved to the city with her Kiwi husband and initially felt out of place. But when she stepped into The Esplanade for the first time, she was struck by the sound of Italian conversations around her. "I said, 'Oh my gosh, this is my place,'" she recalled. She has since been working at the restaurant for nearly 10 years, and the Italian community has grown significantly.

"This Italian community is growing, many people come see us because they really enjoy this little Italian corner," Sanna said. "It feels like we are in a little Italian coast and you can have your Italian drinks, your Italian food, and your Italian gelato, like that's just the cherry on the cake."

Marco Adinolfi, the gelato maker at Sorella Gelato, also found a home in Dunedin. He moved to the city to bring his Italian gelato creations to New Zealand, and he was surprised to discover an existing Italian community. "Every Italian conversation with friends and family is about food," he said. "It's the first thing my mum or dad call me—'What did you eat?'"

Adinolfi has been experimenting with New Zealand flavors, creating a popular scoop inspired by pumpkin pie and using local ingredients like wild clams he finds on the beaches. "I go almost every week with my shovel to dig clams," he said. "I usually cook spaghetti with clams for lunch or dinner most weeks."

Toovey is grateful for the Italians who have made Dunedin their home, bringing with them not just food, but a sense of culture and connection. "The flavours, the smells, it's all like home and it's all familiar," she said. "It's like an anchor in a new community and they gravitate towards it."

As the Italian community in St Clair continues to grow, it's a testament to the power of food, culture, and community in bringing people together. From wood-fired pizzas to gelato, the Italian influence in Dunedin is not just a trend—it's a way of life.